Panjshir Valley

We decided to take a trip to the Panjshir Valley, both to see the tomb of Ahmad Shah Massoud and to see the site of such important resistance during the Russian invasion. This time, we hired a driver and car to ourselves. The driver was a local from the Panjshir Valley, and so was able to show us around very well. We started out on the same road we had taken to Istalif, but this time continued further. We drove through the Shomali Plain. The plain opened before us as we crested a rise in the road, while mountains rose in the distance. As we continued, we came to an area that was green with many trees.
We passed through a village called Gulbahar directly before the entrance to the valley. We wound through the unpaved streets through the bazaar, and then entered the mouth of the valley. We had to pass through a checkpoint first, and security seemed to be fairly tight, as our names were called ahead to the local police. Then we began the drive that had been so disastrous for so many Russian convoys. It was very obvious why this had been the case. In the initial part of the valley, cliffs rise steeply on either side of the road and the swift Panjshir River. In some places, the road is carved into the cliff and it is almost like driving through a tunnel. Clearly, anyone entering here would have been extremely vulnerable. After some time the valley widened. Here fields began to appear alongside the river. Some cows and sheep were also grazing in the flatter areas. Men were fishing in some parts of the river. We passed through some villages along the way. Some were destroyed while others seemed fairly untouched. In some flatter marshy areas, kids were swimming in the river. We also passed quite a few Russian tanks and vehicles. In some places, people were using the Russian trailers as storage places. Evidence of the war formed a strange contrast with the seemingly peaceful beauty of the valley and its villages.
After some time, we came within sight of the tomb. Originally the tomb had been a very modest structure, which seemed in line with Massoud’s personality. However, it was decided that a grander structure needed to be built, and this was under construction. A large gold-domed structure behind scaffolding could be seen perched on a hill. We drove up the road to find that this was part of a huge center being constructed. As a result, it was difficult to approach the exact spot where Massoud was buried. However, there was a photo exhibit set up, mostly very compelling shots of Massoud. There was also a collection of Russian tanks and other weaponry. The view from the place was incredible. Behind us, we could see back up the valley the way we had come. In front of us was another village along the river, and the fields that surrounded us. To either side were steep hills, and between two of the hills more distant jagged mountain peaks could be seen. On one of the hills we could just make out windmills for energy production, something I found somewhat unexpected. All in all, it seemed a fitting resting place for a man that has become a legend.
As we walked away from the construction area, our driver went to speak with an older man who seemed to be in charge of the site. He had grey hair and bright blue eyes, and seemed to be about the age to have known Massoud. We asked him, and he told us that yes, he did indeed fight with Massoud. He pointed towards a hill from which he said they shot down a helicopter. Then, he invited us into the trailer for tea. We accepted because it seemed like a wonderful opportunity. The trailer was another remaining from the war. The radio was still in the trailer, and we saw the name “Kolya” carved into the ceiling. It occurred to me that this could have been one of the casualties of a conflict that claimed so many on both sides.
We chatted a bit with the driver and the head of construction, who lived in the village at the base of the hill. We drank tea and ate bread, and then decided it was time to return to Kabul. Upon leaving I photographed Andrea with the two men.
We quickly wound back through the valley, now seeing it narrow rather than widen. At one point, the driver stopped and we took some spring water from a spring that was located close to the river. The spring was located next to some rice fields, and a boy was playing a flute next to the fields. I ran through the fields to get to the bank of the river and dip my hands into the river.
The rest of the trip back was fairly uneventful. The police officers at the checkpoint asked whether we had enjoyed ourselves, and of course we had. We definitely felt that the highlight had been having tea with someone who fought with Massoud, and we both hope to return to the valley and spend more time there in the future.