Varzob

Since most of my activities have been centered in the center of Dushanbe, I have lately been longing to get out of the city and see some of the countryside. Today I got my chance when some friends suggested a trip to Varzob, a district in the foothills outside the Dushanbe where Tajiks often go to relax for the day. The idea quickly spread from friend to friend and at seven this morning a group of around fifteen Americans, Tajiks and one Iranian gathered to begin this trip. I should point out that seven in the morning should be loosely interpreted; arriving at 7:15 I was still forty-five minutes earlier than the latest person. Among the group were Sitora, whose sister’s wedding party I attended, Nazir and Gulya, the Bukhoran Jews who hosted me for dinner, and Malika, who studied for a year in Idaho and speaks perfect Russian, near perfect English, but no Tajik.

The drive out of the city was beautiful. We quickly reached an area where the road, which ran along a rapid-filled river, was surrounded by cliffs on either side. Many large houses (drug money?) and resorts lined the riverbank, with platforms built out over the river where people can enjoy their meals. We passed the ostentatious summer house of the president, gaudy and yet somewhat impressive. We kept driving, however, until we reached a slightly more remote spot. In the distance, snow-capped mountain peaks pierced the cloudless blue sky. We found a spot near a river and settled down for a rest. Yellow flowers and short scrubby trees surrounded us, while two calves, for some reason without their mother, wandered in the area. Several of us tried to climb the nearest hill, but it was covered in loose rocks so I turned back with several other people. We enjoyed the fresh air and sunshine…and then began to get hungry. While most of the Tajiks had wanted to bring food and cook, several of the Americans had overruled them, wanting to try an Iranian restaurant several miles away. We waited and waited, but it seemed the driver had travelled to some village for an unknown reason. Finally we decided to all pile into one bus and make the drive, although as we went in this squished fashion the other driver finally appeared behind us. We divided into two vans and finished the short trip.

At the restaurant, we sat outside on a raised platform close to an artificial lake, which was quite pretty and surrounded by hills. The lake was full of swimmers and boaters, and several of us swam before our meal came, as well as after. We lazed around this area until nearly 5 pm. Of course, the day ended with a delicious watermelon.

I must say, though, that I was very disappointed to go to the restaurant. The food was overpriced and not good at all. I would have rather cooked food as the Tajiks suggested-I think it would have been much better. But it has been a struggle for me to be on a program that is so focused on Iran while my interest is Central Asia. That is the way of things, however. It is unbelievable this program will soon be ending and I will move on.